Hi all, in the holy city of Pushka at the moment, escaping the touts,
>drizzling rain, flies, heat and cows. 2 days ago we spent the night in a
>rural village called Jojowa. stayed in a palace which was great. makes you
>appreciate the things we take for granted back at home in aus - hot
>showers, toilets, fresh food.
>In jojowa we were walking through the village, when we heard drumming and
>ceremonial chanting. we walked to the village square where it appeared that
>the whole village was watching a show. literally there were 3 story
>delapidated buildings and people were piled high to catch a glimpse of the
>proceedings. then they saw 12 white skinned foreigners and everyone turned
>and looked at us and started chearing. as close to being a celebrity as
>we'll ever get (unless bollywood offers a role). the crowd cleared a path
>and we were led to the front of this circle. it turned out to be a
>religious ceremony for the shiva the god of destruction. it involved black
>magic, a witch doctor and several people dressed as demons, lions, lizards
>and men as women?. the air was thick with the smell of incense and weed. as the drumming intensified the performers started into a
>trance and random people from the crowd started going into epileptic like
>fit. apparently to excise demons from them. locals were literally having to
>hold people back. 1 guy on top of 1 of the buildings started into a trance
>fit and went to jump of the roof in attempt to make it too the centre of
>the circle. it took 5 men to hold him down, but if not it would of ended up
>in sure disaster. it was a crazy experience.
>the bus ride to pushka was crazy 300 people in a 47 capacity seating bus.
>you can imagine the rest.
>pushka is a great city. people come to bathe and pray in the river. it is
>amazing at sunset. chanting, drumming and thousands of people on the banks
>of the river spilling from the temples creating a sea of colours.
>apparently the mafia is rife here. had several offers of flowers to take to
>the river to pray. however upon acceptance, they take you to the river,
>tell you a story and then demand 500 plus aussie dollars for the
>priviledge. violence turns if you refuse. lucky we have a good tour guide.
>i have been offered loads, refused and been spat at in result.
>the stomach is ok at the moment. the rest of the tour group is struggling
>big time.
>thismorning we hiked to the top of a mountain to a hindu temple that
>overlooked the city to see the sunrise. we didn't see it as we were too
>high up and the cloud coverage was thick. brought a pack of biscuits at a
>cafe, had 2, was chased by a monkey, threw the pack at it, it shoved 5 in
>its mouth and then ran off with the pack- craziness.
>anyway got to cruise. leaving tomorrow for jaipur and then to agra to see
>the taj.
>nathan
FROM THE 2006 EMAIL ARCHIVE
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